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Hair Style Tools 101

Confused about which tools are best for what? Styling school is in session!

You can't get a good style without a great blow dryer, and today, tools that once acted like mini wind machines tap modern technology to reduce drying time, static and hair damage. The higher the wattage of the dryer, the better and faster a finish you'll get. To avoid thermal damage, never hold a blower closer than eight inches from your hair and keep it in constant motion.

Ionic dryers emit negative ions to speed styling and today, they go one better with the addition of infrared heat, which penetrates to dry from the inside out, like microwaves. Ceramic dryers are similar to ionic dryers and both are great for curly, frizzy or colored-treated hair.

Brushing Up

There are four basic types of brushes: vent, round, cushion, and styling and finishing. Vent brushes have an opening for air-flow and are best for soft styles with added volume. They aren't for complete control, which is why you can use them to add texture. Round brushes create body, curl and some controlled volume. They can also be used to smooth hair.

Cushion brushes have a rubber or synthetic pad. The cushion brush is best for medium-length hair that is naturally straight. The flat back reinforces hair's sleekness. You won't get any bend with this brush. Finally, styling and finishing brushes include the classic Denman, which can be used on wet or dry hair. When these brushes have boar bristles, they're gentler and good for fine hair. Nylon bristles are great for thick locks. Ionic bristles are treated to emit negative ions. Like ionic dryers and flat irons, they help hair dry faster and reduce static.

Many professional hair stylists have these recommendations for using brushes right:

  • Use a paddle brush for brushing out long hair and for creating straight, smooth styles.
  • A thermal round brush in small, medium, large and jumbo-sized barrels can be used with the heat of a blow dryer. Smaller round brushes act like a roller to create curl and movement. Larger ones smooth locks and add body.
  • Curling Cues

    Curling irons, which were once all metal, also come in ceramic styles, with barrels in various shapes and diameters. Rule of thumb: The bigger the barrel, the bigger the curl.

    To use curling irons right, place the iron about an inch from your scalp, do a half rotation toward the scalp, then begin to feed the rest of the hair through the iron as you work down the hair shaft slowly. What not to do with curling irons: Place them on the ends of your hair and roll up. This will overheat or "fry" hair. Also, don't let the iron get too hot. If it does, spritz the barrel with water.

    When choosing a curling iron, look for one with a temperature display or control. Newest ones are specially designed for less damage and include: the Braun Independent Steam Cordless Styler (a curling iron and volume brush in one) and Ceramic Tools' Professional Curling Iron.

    Flat Iron Facts

    The most styling damage today comes from the combination of thermal and styling stress. While today's flat irons use ceramic plates and temperature controls, don't be fooled. There's no completely hair-safe way to use these tools. Many on the market go up to 410 degrees C, but salons rarely heat hair over 230 degrees, which should tell you something.

    To use a flat iron right, always use a thermal protecting spray, taking small partings no wider than the iron's plate. The smaller the parting, the cleaner and straighter the results. Then, use a slow pulling motion to get a smoothing effect. Don't pull straight down to the ends, and curve them a bit to finish.

    As with curling irons, look for a flat iron with a temperature control, most all like HairArt's Tourmaline T3 Ceramic Flat Iron have it. Newer flat irons claim to let you flat iron hair when it's damp, but clearly, you risk more damage. Your best bet with these tools is to avoid daily use. High heat in general is always bad for hair, which is why the latest trend is air-drying.

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